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Appliqué

Appliqué, as with patchwork, came about as a means of extending the life of a fabric. When fabric was scarce and expensive items such as garments and bedcovers, which became worn in places could be rescued by applying cut out scraps of material. The material from a favourite dress which had passed its useful life could be cut up and used either to add into a patchwork quilt or used as an appliqué piece to cover a tear or hole in another cherished or useful item. Appliqué quickly became not just a necessary and useful technique but also an art form.

Appliqué can be defined as the technique of attaching one or more fabrics to a background fabric by either hand or machine sewing. Quite often with appliqué patterns the measurements do not have to be as exact as with patchwork. You can create your own templates or buy commercially.

Cutting the appliqué design

Prior to cutting out the appliqué design mark the right side of the fabric to be cut out using a template or, if you wish, by freehand. Remember that if you are to apply the appliqué shape by hand to include an allowance for turning under when you cut the piece out.

Place the appliqué piece on the background. If sewing by hand turn the allowance under as you attach the shape. If attaching by machine you do not need to turn the raw edges under. Instead use a satin stitch in a matching colour.

The art of appliqué as with patchwork and quilting is a great opportunity for experimenting with different methods to produce a delightful range of effects. Apart from the simple appliqué why not consider trying the following: -

'Reverse Appliqué' – here you place two or more layers of fabric together and then cut away the upper layers in a design.

'Appliqué Perse or Broderie Perse' – here you cut out motifs from printed fabric, for example floral or animal prints, and arrange them on a plain background.

'Shadow Appliqué' – here the appliqué patches are placed between two layers of fabric. The base or bottom fabric should ideally be light in colour while the top layer should be transparent or sheer. Fabrics such as organza or chiffon will work. When complete the appliqué design will show through the top layer.

There are many other methods of appliqué to be explored and most books on the subject will provide useful instructions.

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